友禅工房 文庵 studio-mon-an

＃加賀友禅　工芸スニーカー　友禅スニーカー

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【加賀友禅　工芸スニーカーとは】

市販のシューズに友禅技法で絵を描きます。着物と同じ工程で「図案」→「下絵」→「糊置き」→「彩色」→「水洗い（友禅流し）」→「乾燥」で完成です。

シューズの型は「ローカット」「ハイカット」「ロング」「スリッポン」etc

🌟https://youtu.be/ACJE_mkXuSI

着物制作と同じ工程で、すべて手仕事です。(Hand Made Onry)

 

【制作例】

・・・・・・・・オリジナルデザインも承っております。・・・・・・・・

 

🌟スニーカー制作　お問い合わせ

http://studio-mon-an.com/koubou/sneaker

🌟フェイスブック

https://www.facebook.com/kagayuzen.ota.masanobu

🌟インスタグラム

https://www.instagram.com/masanobu_oota/?hl=ja

🌟小物WEB販売

https://mon-an.stores.jp

🌟取材関連記事

http://studio-mon-an.com/koubou/2103.html

🌟太田正伸（昌伸）の仕事

http://studio-mon-an.com/koubou/2147.html

🌟加賀友禅とは

http://studio-mon-an.com/koubou/2114.html

 

 

＃加賀友禅　kagayuzen「青花紙」つくり体験＆工程

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加賀友禅の下絵に使う「青花紙」は、ツユ草科の栽培種「青花」の花を絞った汁で作られています。花名は、よく「ツユ草」と言われてますが正式には「青花」といいます。この青花は３７０年くらい前に記録があるそうです。

⭐️２月に種をまき苗を育て、５月に苗を畑に植えます。６月後半から７月に花摘みです。

⭐️ひとつひとつ手で収穫しカゴの中に集めます。

⭐️集めた花をふるいに掛け、雌しべ、雄しべを落とします。

⭐️さらに残ったガクなど取り除きます。

⭐️いよいよ花ビラを手で揉み青い汁を抽出します。とても綺麗なブルーで意外と液が出てくるのでビックリ！花ビラが白くなるまで何回も絞り出します。

⭐️和紙を４枚１組で重ね、青花の汁を布で漉し不純物をとります。

⭐️いよいよ刷毛で塗ります。最初は塗ると言うより浸み込ませる感じ。

⭐️塗った和紙をゴザの上に並べ天日で干します。乾いたら裏返して塗り、また干す。この作業を繰り返します。

⭐️仕上がりの目安は塗る回数というよりも、重さが目安です。（和紙１００枚１３０g→塗った後１００枚４００g）十分な重さになったら４枚１組の和紙を２枚１組に分離して完成です。青花の研究をしている落合先生（右端後）と中川さん（右２番目）。２０２０年現在、中川さんは９０歳で、ただ一人作られています。

青花紙を作る農家が減り、現在１人となってしまいました。草津市では、生産技術を後世に残すため保存継承に取り組んでいます。

・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・

⭐️加賀友禅工程

http://studio-mon-an.com/koubou/2147.html

⭐️フェイスブック

https://www.facebook.com/kagayuzen.ota.masanobu

⭐️インスタグラム

https://www.instagram.com/masanobu_oota/?hl=ja

⭐️小物WEB販売

https://mon-an.stores.jp

⭐️取材関連記事

http://studio-mon-an.com/koubou/2103.html

 

 

 

 

＃加賀友禅工程　スケッチ〜染上がりまで　　太田正伸（昌伸）の仕事

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【加賀友禅製作工程】当工房での加賀友禅は、どの様に作られているのか工程を追いながら紹介していきます。

【スケッチ＆構成】

スケッチを元に、イメージや感じた事を想いながら、いろいろなデザイン構成を考えます。

 

【構成＆下図完成まで】

何度も構成し描く題材が決定したら雛形をつくりイメージを確認します。その後、実寸サイズで仮下図を描き細部を調整します。清書をして本下図の完成です。

 

【下絵】

ツユ草科の在来作物「青花」の花を絞り、汁を和紙に浸み込ませ乾燥させたものを「青花紙」と言い下絵に使います。ガラス机の下からライトをあて、面相筆を使い、程よい濃さで滲みのない線を描きます。下絵の技術習得期間は、約１ヶ月〜３ヶ月ほど。

*青花紙は２０２０年現在、滋賀県草津市で中川さん（９０歳）がお一人で生産されています。そのため草津市では保存継承に取り組んでいます。

⭐️下絵動画

https://youtu.be/0I6cRx3BZMY

⭐️青花紙つくり体験　　http://studio-mon-an.com/koubou/2195.html

 

【糊置き】

「友禅とは糊を置き防染する技法の一つ」一般的に「糸目」（いとめ）を引く、といいます。当工房では、でんぷん質の「もち糊」と化学性の「ゴム糊」を使い分けております。もち糊は柿渋筒、ゴム糊はセロハン筒で、筒の先に「先金」（さきがね）を装着して、親指と人差指で絞り出しながら引きます。

⭐️糊置き動画

https://youtu.be/IezdS8y9wBw

糸目を引き終えると「地入れ」・「青花落とし」をして糊置きの完成です。地入れは糊を生地に食い込ませ防染力を上げるためにします。この時、青花が消えて無くなります。糊置きの技術習得期間は約３年〜５年ほど。

 

【彩色】

いよいよ彩色です。加賀友禅は「花鳥や風景」など「加賀五彩」・「虫食い」・「外ボカシ」などの特徴が一般的です。当工房では、その特徴に囚われず、いかに感じたものを、どの様に表現するか、色合いやデザインも含め作家独自の表現や雰囲気を大切にしています。

彩色机は穴が空いており、下から熱をあて乾かしながら彩色をします。冬は暖かいけど、夏は暑い！彩色筆や刷毛は色により使い分け、主に片刷毛（片方が長くなっている）を使いボカシをします。

⭐️彩色動画

https://youtu.be/PJNeC9PriDA

●加賀友禅とは？　　http://studio-mon-an.com/koubou/2114.html

彩色は糸目の半分まで塗る気持ちで「透かさず、はみ出さず」が基本です。一つ一つ丁寧な仕事の積み重ねが作品となっていきます。彩色の技術習得は約３年〜５年ほど。

 

【仮蒸し・中埋め】

彩色を終えると蒸し室にいれて「仮蒸し」（色の定着のため）をして、その後「中埋め」（彩色をした模様部分を糊で埋める作業）です。

中埋め用の筒は大きめな物を使い、先金も使い分けます。

糸目糊との隙間が無いよう、はみ出さないように伏せていきます。大きな場面ではスプーンで直接伏せることもあります。この中埋め糊を「伏せ糊」と言います。

糊の中に気泡があると染めの段階でトラブルが発生したりするので糊の中の気泡が残らないよう針でつぶします。

糊の強度を上げるため友禅糠・ひき粉（杉やヒノキの木屑）を掛け、乾かします。

 

【地洗い・引染め（地染）】

中埋めの糊が乾いたら、タワシで余分なひき粉を落とし、地洗いをして伏せ糊を落ち着かせる。乾いたら、いよいよ「地染め」です。

地染めが始まると、一反分引終えるまで中断はできません。１回目の染が終わると再度、均し染をします。この時抜け落ちた刷毛毛など箒で払い、染液が偏らないように平行に張り乾かします。染め方には「引き染」や「ボカシ染め」などあります。染の技術習得は約３年〜５年。

 

【本蒸し・水元（友禅ながし）・ゆのし】

染め上がったら「蒸し室」に入れ蒸気を当て色を定着させます。この工程を「本蒸し」と言います。蒸しを終えると「水元」（水洗い）をして糊や余分な染料を落とします。一般的に「友禅流し」といい、以前は犀川（男川）、浅野川（女川）で行われていました。現在は地下水を汲み上げた人工川で行われています。この後、乾燥させ「ゆのし」（蒸気でシワを伸ばしたり反物の幅を整える作業）をかけ仕上がりです。

仕上がり部分

・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・

⭐️小物WEB販売

https://mon-an.stores.jp/

⭐️フェイスブック

https://www.facebook.com/kagayuzen.ota.masanobu

⭐️インスタグラム

https://www.instagram.com/masanobu_oota/?hl=ja

⭐️TV　

にっぽん真発見　BSテレ東　２０１５年４月　５日放送

https://www.bs-tvtokyo.co.jp/newdiscovery/150405.html

遠くへ行きたい　　　　　　２０１６年４月１７日放送

http://www.to-ku.com/midokoro/2303.htm

http://www.to-ku.com/data/data.htm

 

 

 

「＃加賀友禅とは？」加賀友禅の歴史から新しい加賀友禅まで

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【加賀友禅】とは？・・・「優美」武家文化を背景とした写実的な絵画調。加賀五彩（藍、燕脂、黄　土、草、古代紫）を基調とした多彩調、虫食い、外ボカシなどの特徴のあるもの。花鳥風月を主体に表現した古典的なイメージでデザインをした物が一般的です。その中でも作家独自の色、形で表現された物が本来の加賀友禅です。故に作家制度が生まれました。

【友禅】とは？

布に模様を染める技法の一つで、もち米の防染糊（でんぷん糊）を用い手描きで染めたもの。染める技法、染め方を意味します。華やかな草花文様をイメージされる方が多く、それも間違いではないのですが、技法などは「友禅」、華やかな絵柄は「友禅文様」と理解して頂ければと思います。

加賀五彩：落ち着いた渋目の色調

加賀友禅の真髄は、スケッチを元に色合い、構成など作家独自のオリジナルデザインのもの。古典的な加賀友禅文様だけでは無く、現代的な作家独自のオリジナル文様も加賀友禅の魅力です。加賀染振興協会では作家制度があり落款登録をして加賀友禅作家として認定されます。

古典的な作風で代表的な加賀友禅作家さんは、白坂幸蔵先生、柿本市郎先生など。現代的な作風で代表的な加賀友禅作家さんは、由水煌人先生、中町博志先生など。

🌟加賀友禅の工程　　http://studio-mon-an.com/koubou/2147.html

 

【日本三大友禅】

主な友禅の産地として金沢（加賀）、京都（京）、東京（江戸）があり、繊細な糊置きの技法（友禅）と多彩華麗な絵文様が特色です。例えとして加賀は「優美ゆうび」、京は「雅みやび」、江戸は「粋いき」と言われています。

●加賀友禅・・・「優美」武家文化を背景に作家オリジナルな文様で構成し、装飾はしない。

●京友禅・・・・「雅」公家文化を背景に有職文様、御所解文様など古典文様を構成する。金箔、刺繍などの装飾がある。

●江戸友禅・・・「粋」大名から裕福な町方子女まで、お誂えとして独自のデザインを注文。洒落た粋なキモノがはやり、有職文様や写実柄など幅広く、自由奔放に発展。

 

【歴史：加賀絹、梅染、色絵紋（加賀紋）】

１０世紀　　　平安時代、朝廷の記録に「加賀は絹の産出国」と記さる。

１４６４年　　室町時代には加賀染として「梅染め：赤き色に黄味のある色、無地染」と染めた記録がある。

１６４４年〜　正保年間（江戸時代の初期）色絵紋（加賀紋）が始められ１７００年頃には完成していた。

１７００年〜　江戸時代中期、宮崎友禅斎が友禅技法を確立し、広める。

 

●色絵紋（加賀紋）　染料の滲みを防ぐための糊の進歩が繊細な加賀友禅を生んだとも言われています。

【宮崎友禅斎】

１７００年前後（元禄年間）に京都の知恩院前に住んでいた事は分かっていますが、出生地については金沢とも京都とも、あるいは能登（穴水）とも言われています。京で活躍したのちに金沢へ移り友禅の技法を広めました。元文元年（１７３６年）８３歳で没。大正９年（１９２０年）に金沢の龍国寺で友禅斎の供養塔が発見され晩年を金沢で過ごした事がほぼ確実となっています。

・・・宮崎友禅斎坐像・・・

その後、加賀独自で発展した「お国染め」は、武士や町人の日常着や暖簾、夜着、風呂敷などに染められ、明治、大正、昭和へと手描き友禅の技術と伝統が継承されてきました。

【金沢が生んだ人間国宝　木村雨山・二塚長生】

昭和３０年（１９５５年）には故・木村雨山先生が重要無形文化財保持者（人間国宝）に認定され加賀友禅の知名度もさらにアップしました。金沢では雨山先生以来５５年ぶりに平成２２年（２０１０年）二塚長生先生が重要無形文化財保持者に認定され現代の友禅美を追求しておられます。２０１８年石川県立美術館で開催された【「森羅万象をまとう」木村雨山・二塚長生の仕事】は記憶に新しく、加賀友禅の本質を見た様で感慨深いものがありました。

スケッチから、その感動を表現するために構成し製作された着物。素敵です！

石川県立美術館　http://www.ishibi.pref.ishikawa.jp/exhibition/4985/

 

【新しい加賀友禅】現代に合う加賀友禅の挑戦

着物ファンの方々と意見交換をして、提案を取り入れつつも作家独自の加賀友禅を製作しました。題材は、普段加賀友禅では取り入れないような「ケーキなどスィーツ」から、「雪の結晶、植物」など・・・古典柄ではなく、現代の生活様式に合うようなお洒落な提案です。

「sweet」佐藤賢一　作　　　　　　　　　「雫」山田武志　作

 

「雪の華」鶴見晋史　作　　　　　　　　　「つづまやか」太田正伸（昌伸）作

・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・

太田正伸　masanobu oota 　リンク

⭐️フェイスブック

https://www.facebook.com/kagayuzen.ota.masanobu

⭐️インスタグラム

https://www.instagram.com/masanobu_oota/?hl=ja

⭐️小物WEB販売

https://mon-an.stores.jp

⭐️取材関連記事

http://studio-mon-an.com/koubou/2103.html

⭐️太田正伸（昌伸）の仕事

http://studio-mon-an.com/koubou/2147.html

⭐️青花紙つくり体験

http://studio-mon-an.com/koubou/2195.html

 

 

 

 

 

＃加賀友禅　取材記事関連

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⭐️【にっぽん真発見　BSテレ東　２０１５年４月５日放送】

https://www.bs-tvtokyo.co.jp/newdiscovery/150405.html

 

⭐️【遠くへ行きたい　２０１６年４月１７日放送】

http://www.to-ku.com/midokoro/2303.htm

http://www.to-ku.com/data/data.htm

 

⭐️【JIZAI】：https://jiz.ai/interviews/_015_/all

⭐️【HAND】：https://bonno-web.com/machineta/3478/

⭐️【HONDA】：https://www.honda.co.jp/N/voice/03/

⭐️【清雅堂】：https://seigado.co.jp/items/board_02/cont_01.php

⭐️【ウクライナ文部省より表彰】

http://studio-mon-an.com/koubou/2054.html

 

 

にっぽん真発見　BSテレ東　2015年4月5日放送

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新幹線開業に沸く石川県　　https://www.bs-tvtokyo.co.jp/newdiscovery/150405.html

MC：三宅裕司さん      アシスタント：須黒清華さん    ゲスト：草野満代さん   

リポーター：清水宏保さん

 

ウクライナ文化省より表彰

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イマジン・ワン・ワールド　キモノプロジェクトにてウクライナの振袖を製作した事により、イマジンの高倉さん、スポンサーの井出さんと共に文化省より表彰されました。 さらに日本とウクライナの交流が深まることを楽しみにしています。（ウクライナ日本大使館にて）

＃加賀友禅　WEBショップ　mon-an-STORE　開設

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文庵 mon-an-STORE       http://mon-an.stores.jp

「金箔風ひさごコースターセット」

「加賀友禅文様手鞠コースター」

「加賀友禅文様ぽち袋」

お買い上げ合計５，０００円以上送料無料

ホームページ「小物」にもリンクしております。

 

「となりのテレ金ちゃん」にて父の日プレゼントに「手描き友禅名刺入れ」紹介。

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北村アナウンサーから取材の連絡がありました。 今期の石川デザインセンターの選定商品カタログをみて来られたとのこと。嬉しかったですね～。 取材も順調に終えた後、北村さんが名刺入れを購入されました。父、母にプレゼントだそうです。親孝行なシッカリとした可愛い娘さんです。

手描き友禅名刺入れ

ＭＲＯ「レオすた」工芸スニーカー展で生出演。

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https://youtu.be/ACJE_mkXuSI

 

工芸スニーカー

リハーサルからスタジオ入りして、出番までスタジオ内で待機。 レオさんと前原さんのアナウンスを目の前で聞きました。さすがプロ！聴き惚れました。